Thursday, June 25, 2009

An Italianesque Greek Isle

The Greek islands are generally thought to be charming, if somewhat primitive in amenities; white washed buildings hugging the shore, windmills at lands end, stunning turquoise domes complimenting the sea. You may be surprised to find the isle of Corfu in Greece’s far northwest to be quite the contrary. It is its location in the Ionian sea a short sail from the Italian coast that has colored its environment. Locals tell me it is indeed the Venetian influence, buildings reflecting those of its neighbour much more closely than those of Greek extraction. Lovely ironwork decorates balconies, bright oranges, yellows and pink paint the walls. Fresh laundry flaps in the breeze strung from open shuttered windows.

Oasis Hotel

The entire economy of the island revolves around tourism. They are eager and ready to welcome off islanders during the warm months of June through September. Seldom have I seen such organized productive use of resources in greeting new arrivals and seeing to the comfort of departing guests. The Corfu airport is a model of modern efficiency; a well oiled machine which may strain under the numbers of high season tourists, but has definite well-rehearsed plan to handle them. Innumerable open air cafes line the beaches and roads tempting the passerby to stop and linger awhile. It is indeed the pace of the island to pause and rest. Hotels offer balconies outside most rooms, beautiful vistas of the lovely clear water and verdant cliffs your reward.

Snorkler off Corfu

crystal waters of Corfu

Corfu

Pricing is moderate and availability of delicious Greek fare everywhere.

Graceful magenta bougainvilleas drape over wall and terrace, potted flowers adorn patios, the dusty green of olive trees are interrupted by spikes of tall dark junipers.

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Creamy yellow butterflies flit and the ever present refrain of the sea plays accompaniment in this dulcet holiday environ. Thunderheads build across the water above the Greek/Albanian mainland. Late night flash of electricity gilds the clouds in silver silhouette; far off rumbling of Zeus holding court high over the thirsty hills. A singular ferry cuts through the water making way for the sparkling thread of shoreline.

Ancient Phoenicians planted some eight million olive trees during their tenure on Corfu; the locals harvest their bounty, black nets rolled under each in anticipation of collecting the drop.

olive nets

Olive oil, olive wood boxes and jewellery, herbs, kumquats, orange and lemons are produced in abundance still in the hands of small locally owned family farms. The tasty refreshment of Mythos lager is held in high esteem as is the gyros filled pitas. Lamb chops bathed in oregano seasoned oil and wine vinegar are the best in the world and the crisp Greek salad with its dark lettuce, crunchy cucumbers, purple onion, salty olives and ruby red tomatoes topped with a generous rectangle of feta cheese is repast of the Gods after a long hot afternoon of island exploration.

Kebab dinner

Food markets are well stocked and plentiful for those who wish to purchase supplies for picnicking in one of the myriad of lovely coves. Atop its tall hills, quaint villages cling, single track roads serpentine through narrow passageways.

laundry

Old men rest in the shade of town squares, scooters buzz about through the more traveled districts; the quiet of midday retreat from the intense Mediterranean sun an intelligent and anticipated habit. Restaurants come alive after sunset and remain so late into the evening.

Oasis Hotel Pool

Children are ever present; a genuine family atmosphere pervasive. Perhaps it is these very features that make this destination so attractive to young families. There is fun and relaxation for members of all ages.
Always in the background are the native Corfoits offering service and cultural color. They make their living during the short summer months working seven days a weeks metaphorical penance for well earned off season rest. Willing and helpful, they project a genuine air of hospitality. Although your ears and eyes may fill with the unfamiliar strains of Greek, most residents speak English, most menus translated. Some pockets of the island resemble third world neglect result of harsh marine environment and meager means, one never feels unsafe. Strong and proud, the Greeks are descendents of the fathers of modern thought, politics and our languages--the cradle of civilization. They wear the mantle well.

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Mythos on the patio

Thursday, June 18, 2009

The Eternal City

The eternal city just may have earned its name by the breathtaking environs. At every turn there is a new cluster of shops, dancing fountain or hazy vista to please the eye.
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The neighbor that is an island within it—Vatican City, influences the entirety of Rome.

Swiss Guardsmen watch over the grounds protecting the Pope and the integrity of the state.
Swiss Guards
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St Peter’s Dome is central,
St Peter's Dome
seen from all around the city as reminder of the deep roots of mother church. Arguably the most beautiful religious edifice in the world, Saint Peters dwarfs the individual by the grand scale of its soaring archways and exquisite art.
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Shafts of white light filter through incense shrouded air adding to the ethereal effect.
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Clergy gather for Friday evening Vespers; cardinals, bishops and priests shoulder to shoulder.
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Men’s choral strain float to the heavens, pure rich aural refrain to the majesty of it surrounds.

The streets buzz with traffic skirting such ancient site as the Forum, Coliseum and Pantheon.
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Mimicking St Peters in effect, the Pantheon stands a perfect example of the way Rome absorbs its history lying in the embrace of neighborhood houses and shops.
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All this rich history is part and parcel of the heartbeat of this place.
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A Piece of Italian Paradise

Gliding through the deep waters off the Amalfi coast is like being present on the set of a James Bond film. White water churning behind the boat, spray in your face, sheer cliffs resplendent with smooth plasterwork houses painted crisp white or any of an assortment of Tuscan oranges, cheery pinks or lemon yellow, one would hardly be surprised if one of the multi million Euro yachts launched a sleek speedboat into the sea in your pursuit.

Lacco Ameno from above

Forty five minutes to the Ischia harbour, the captain of the ferry pulls back on the power and we sidle up to the pier. Life ashore hums with movement; scooters weave through traffic, pedestrians boldly compete for narrow sidewalks and the carabinieri stand at pivotal passageways allowing only certain vehicles to pass. We hop on one of a small fleet of island circling buses jostling along the smooth black cobbles toward the enclave of Lacco Ameno.

Lacco Ameno

Up and over one of the numerous volcanic hills, we wind our way along the coast, warm breeze tossing hair about in playful welcome. The wind is not unlike that of the Hawaiian Islands keeping inhabitants gratefully cooled. On the crest of summer, temperatures have not soared into the discomfort zone and I am happy to shed the layers of clothing that have kept me warm the past few weeks in northern climes.

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Time slows in this sleepy little piece of heaven. The appearance of Lacco Ameno’s landmark ‘Il Fungi’ mushroom shaped rock in the harbour ahead signal our arrival.

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Claudia’s warm smile welcomes us to her B&B set a block up a private lane from the sea. Not only do I anticipate warm custard filled coronet crescent roll and frothy café latte in the morning, but evening meals are also included. Our hosts make sure the bounty of their island is served. Rabbit, fresh pesto, herbs harvested from pots decorating the stone walls of the garden and fish caught right off of the coast are amongst the nightly repast.

Christine's B&B cafe

By the second or third day, I have forgotten the date, the existence of the modern world faded into the recesses of my mind as some long past memory. The sights, sounds and smells of the island fill me with eerily familiar feelings. The flora mimics closely the southern California environs; startling fuchsia bougainvilleas cascade over terraced walls, the dusty green of olive trees compliment oleanders in full bloom.

island oleander


hibiscus


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The height of the stay is the exhilaration of riding a sleek silver scooter through the winding narrow roads up and down the mountainous terrain lushly covered in grapevines, native grasses and wildflowers.

Christine on scooter

The smell of sulfur plays undertone to the many pleasant orders of cooking and the ever-present herbs. This is the island known Mediterranean wide as being the healing spa, its numerous caldera vents heating the sea in natural pools of varying degree. Even the Il Fungi has one, the sea warms as you slip by underwater along its perimeter.
The residents take great pride in the offerings of their shores. Restaurants are nestled in small alleyways and along the sea, smell of garlic and crisp crusty bread inviting the passerby to rest under the shade of a straw umbrella and sip a Peroni lager whilst enjoying the best pizza in the world.

seaside cafe- San Angelo


Hotel/spa by the sea -San Angelo

Stores close from one to five allowing the island to rest in the cool shade under colorful awnings or retreat into the welcome dim of hotel room or spa.

San Angelo- shops in the cliffs


Therapeutic thermal spa


corner adornment

Tile is the choice of flooring as well as décor. It is soothing on weary feet and beautiful adornment to walls and storefront.

Tiles as decor


ceramic mask embedded in wall

Civilization heralds from before the Roman Empire. Many visitors since have lingered making this place home. There is a supernatural feel to sea and air, accepting all who come here into its warm embrace. As I head for Rome, I am sad to leave this largely undiscovered island. Setting for an upcoming novel, it will fill the pages with riches beyond monetary wealth. Come along with me to an place bathed by turquoise sea, home to one of summers most prestigious film festivals and respite for the weary urban dweller.

Poseidon


Christine by pool- Villa Campo


Villa Campo second story


Lacco Ameno at twilight