Thursday, June 25, 2009

An Italianesque Greek Isle

The Greek islands are generally thought to be charming, if somewhat primitive in amenities; white washed buildings hugging the shore, windmills at lands end, stunning turquoise domes complimenting the sea. You may be surprised to find the isle of Corfu in Greece’s far northwest to be quite the contrary. It is its location in the Ionian sea a short sail from the Italian coast that has colored its environment. Locals tell me it is indeed the Venetian influence, buildings reflecting those of its neighbour much more closely than those of Greek extraction. Lovely ironwork decorates balconies, bright oranges, yellows and pink paint the walls. Fresh laundry flaps in the breeze strung from open shuttered windows.

Oasis Hotel

The entire economy of the island revolves around tourism. They are eager and ready to welcome off islanders during the warm months of June through September. Seldom have I seen such organized productive use of resources in greeting new arrivals and seeing to the comfort of departing guests. The Corfu airport is a model of modern efficiency; a well oiled machine which may strain under the numbers of high season tourists, but has definite well-rehearsed plan to handle them. Innumerable open air cafes line the beaches and roads tempting the passerby to stop and linger awhile. It is indeed the pace of the island to pause and rest. Hotels offer balconies outside most rooms, beautiful vistas of the lovely clear water and verdant cliffs your reward.

Snorkler off Corfu

crystal waters of Corfu

Corfu

Pricing is moderate and availability of delicious Greek fare everywhere.

Graceful magenta bougainvilleas drape over wall and terrace, potted flowers adorn patios, the dusty green of olive trees are interrupted by spikes of tall dark junipers.

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Creamy yellow butterflies flit and the ever present refrain of the sea plays accompaniment in this dulcet holiday environ. Thunderheads build across the water above the Greek/Albanian mainland. Late night flash of electricity gilds the clouds in silver silhouette; far off rumbling of Zeus holding court high over the thirsty hills. A singular ferry cuts through the water making way for the sparkling thread of shoreline.

Ancient Phoenicians planted some eight million olive trees during their tenure on Corfu; the locals harvest their bounty, black nets rolled under each in anticipation of collecting the drop.

olive nets

Olive oil, olive wood boxes and jewellery, herbs, kumquats, orange and lemons are produced in abundance still in the hands of small locally owned family farms. The tasty refreshment of Mythos lager is held in high esteem as is the gyros filled pitas. Lamb chops bathed in oregano seasoned oil and wine vinegar are the best in the world and the crisp Greek salad with its dark lettuce, crunchy cucumbers, purple onion, salty olives and ruby red tomatoes topped with a generous rectangle of feta cheese is repast of the Gods after a long hot afternoon of island exploration.

Kebab dinner

Food markets are well stocked and plentiful for those who wish to purchase supplies for picnicking in one of the myriad of lovely coves. Atop its tall hills, quaint villages cling, single track roads serpentine through narrow passageways.

laundry

Old men rest in the shade of town squares, scooters buzz about through the more traveled districts; the quiet of midday retreat from the intense Mediterranean sun an intelligent and anticipated habit. Restaurants come alive after sunset and remain so late into the evening.

Oasis Hotel Pool

Children are ever present; a genuine family atmosphere pervasive. Perhaps it is these very features that make this destination so attractive to young families. There is fun and relaxation for members of all ages.
Always in the background are the native Corfoits offering service and cultural color. They make their living during the short summer months working seven days a weeks metaphorical penance for well earned off season rest. Willing and helpful, they project a genuine air of hospitality. Although your ears and eyes may fill with the unfamiliar strains of Greek, most residents speak English, most menus translated. Some pockets of the island resemble third world neglect result of harsh marine environment and meager means, one never feels unsafe. Strong and proud, the Greeks are descendents of the fathers of modern thought, politics and our languages--the cradle of civilization. They wear the mantle well.

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Mythos on the patio

Thursday, June 18, 2009

The Eternal City

The eternal city just may have earned its name by the breathtaking environs. At every turn there is a new cluster of shops, dancing fountain or hazy vista to please the eye.
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The neighbor that is an island within it—Vatican City, influences the entirety of Rome.

Swiss Guardsmen watch over the grounds protecting the Pope and the integrity of the state.
Swiss Guards
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St Peter’s Dome is central,
St Peter's Dome
seen from all around the city as reminder of the deep roots of mother church. Arguably the most beautiful religious edifice in the world, Saint Peters dwarfs the individual by the grand scale of its soaring archways and exquisite art.
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Shafts of white light filter through incense shrouded air adding to the ethereal effect.
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Clergy gather for Friday evening Vespers; cardinals, bishops and priests shoulder to shoulder.
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Men’s choral strain float to the heavens, pure rich aural refrain to the majesty of it surrounds.

The streets buzz with traffic skirting such ancient site as the Forum, Coliseum and Pantheon.
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Mimicking St Peters in effect, the Pantheon stands a perfect example of the way Rome absorbs its history lying in the embrace of neighborhood houses and shops.
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All this rich history is part and parcel of the heartbeat of this place.
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A Piece of Italian Paradise

Gliding through the deep waters off the Amalfi coast is like being present on the set of a James Bond film. White water churning behind the boat, spray in your face, sheer cliffs resplendent with smooth plasterwork houses painted crisp white or any of an assortment of Tuscan oranges, cheery pinks or lemon yellow, one would hardly be surprised if one of the multi million Euro yachts launched a sleek speedboat into the sea in your pursuit.

Lacco Ameno from above

Forty five minutes to the Ischia harbour, the captain of the ferry pulls back on the power and we sidle up to the pier. Life ashore hums with movement; scooters weave through traffic, pedestrians boldly compete for narrow sidewalks and the carabinieri stand at pivotal passageways allowing only certain vehicles to pass. We hop on one of a small fleet of island circling buses jostling along the smooth black cobbles toward the enclave of Lacco Ameno.

Lacco Ameno

Up and over one of the numerous volcanic hills, we wind our way along the coast, warm breeze tossing hair about in playful welcome. The wind is not unlike that of the Hawaiian Islands keeping inhabitants gratefully cooled. On the crest of summer, temperatures have not soared into the discomfort zone and I am happy to shed the layers of clothing that have kept me warm the past few weeks in northern climes.

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Time slows in this sleepy little piece of heaven. The appearance of Lacco Ameno’s landmark ‘Il Fungi’ mushroom shaped rock in the harbour ahead signal our arrival.

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Claudia’s warm smile welcomes us to her B&B set a block up a private lane from the sea. Not only do I anticipate warm custard filled coronet crescent roll and frothy café latte in the morning, but evening meals are also included. Our hosts make sure the bounty of their island is served. Rabbit, fresh pesto, herbs harvested from pots decorating the stone walls of the garden and fish caught right off of the coast are amongst the nightly repast.

Christine's B&B cafe

By the second or third day, I have forgotten the date, the existence of the modern world faded into the recesses of my mind as some long past memory. The sights, sounds and smells of the island fill me with eerily familiar feelings. The flora mimics closely the southern California environs; startling fuchsia bougainvilleas cascade over terraced walls, the dusty green of olive trees compliment oleanders in full bloom.

island oleander


hibiscus


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The height of the stay is the exhilaration of riding a sleek silver scooter through the winding narrow roads up and down the mountainous terrain lushly covered in grapevines, native grasses and wildflowers.

Christine on scooter

The smell of sulfur plays undertone to the many pleasant orders of cooking and the ever-present herbs. This is the island known Mediterranean wide as being the healing spa, its numerous caldera vents heating the sea in natural pools of varying degree. Even the Il Fungi has one, the sea warms as you slip by underwater along its perimeter.
The residents take great pride in the offerings of their shores. Restaurants are nestled in small alleyways and along the sea, smell of garlic and crisp crusty bread inviting the passerby to rest under the shade of a straw umbrella and sip a Peroni lager whilst enjoying the best pizza in the world.

seaside cafe- San Angelo


Hotel/spa by the sea -San Angelo

Stores close from one to five allowing the island to rest in the cool shade under colorful awnings or retreat into the welcome dim of hotel room or spa.

San Angelo- shops in the cliffs


Therapeutic thermal spa


corner adornment

Tile is the choice of flooring as well as décor. It is soothing on weary feet and beautiful adornment to walls and storefront.

Tiles as decor


ceramic mask embedded in wall

Civilization heralds from before the Roman Empire. Many visitors since have lingered making this place home. There is a supernatural feel to sea and air, accepting all who come here into its warm embrace. As I head for Rome, I am sad to leave this largely undiscovered island. Setting for an upcoming novel, it will fill the pages with riches beyond monetary wealth. Come along with me to an place bathed by turquoise sea, home to one of summers most prestigious film festivals and respite for the weary urban dweller.

Poseidon


Christine by pool- Villa Campo


Villa Campo second story


Lacco Ameno at twilight

The Road From Paris To Lyon

Paris takes on a more romantic air by night.
Moon over Paris
The business of the day is complete and the streets fill with diners and those who wish nothing more than to enjoy its charm. The sadness of the memorial service held at Notre Dame for the crash victims aboard an Air France flight gives way to the peace and comfort of dark. Those that filled the vast Luxembourg Gardens
have gone home and the streets are bathed in golden lamplight. The glass domed boats that cut through the Seine are moored.
Sightseeing boat on the Seine
Even the landmark monuments that glow white in the sun now whisper by night.
Arch de Triumphe and Ms London
The famous and everyday lie side by side in Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise
Jim Morrison grave
Final resting place of the Doors, Jim Morrison,
cemetary

dancer Maria Callas, literary genius Oscar Wilde and a host of affluent Parisian families entombed in mausoleums of chiseled stone). Structural lines fall into shadow casting each nuance of architecture in dramatic relief .
Notre Dame at night
Gargoyles overlook passersby and the rotating searchlight of the Tour de Eiffel marks the rhythm of the city as it moves toward slumber.
gargoyles
Urban life slips away as my French friend and I listen to the metal on metal song of the high speed train that whisks us through the fertile centre of France to the city considered the culinary Mecca of Europe---Lyon. His parents spoil us with fine beef, pungent local cheeses and fruit so sweet there need be no other dessert. Always there is the bread---that quintessential icon of French life---the baguette.
pan et Frommage
Crust crispy perfection protecting its light open-textured heart, this is the definition of the staff of life at its pinnacle.
Touring the Burgundy region to the north, we dodge showers, enjoying the Saturday market,
outdoor market
lunch served in underground wine cellar of old and wine tasting at the premiere Chateau de Meursault.
Chateau de Meursault
The cedar of Lebanon has stood watch over the estate for two hundred fifty years, it the youth of a realm whose cellars and house date back to the eleventh century.
Cedar of Lebanon at vineyard/chateau
A Sunday walk along the Soane River reveals a city less congested than its capital sister to the north, but retaining much of the same feeling. Bicycles (Vivlib) are hirable for one Euro per twenty-four hour period allowing anyone with the desire to experience the streets, wind in hair atop cheap transportation. I used the Parisian version affording a vantage of the Seine and the many landmarks of Paris few foreigners experience.
Vivlib bikes in lamplight
Lyon is at the confluence of the Rhone and Soane bisecting the city providing miles of riverside walks. Elegant swans share the river with sleek barges
barge restaurant on the Soane
Flags in Lyon
and the flags of country, city and European Union fly proudly. Seldom have I been treated with such genuine warmth, nor spoiled so regally. Can the caricature of the rude Frenchman be a myth? Perhaps the secret is to arrive quietly, absorb the atmosphere gratefully and savor the sights, sounds and flavours that are uniquely French. Oh…and having a native friend as guide and host is best of all.
Flowerbed at Luxemborg Gardens

swan in Soane

trees at Luxemborg gardens
Paris by night

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Paris - One Day In June

Little to say that has not been said before about this most beautiful of cities so I will let the photos do the talking...

Buildings...
Street 2


architecture 1


aritecture 3


...and streets...
Street 3


Modern Art Museum "Centre Pompidou"


Street 4


gardens...
balcony garden 2


in the garden


garden in center of houses/flats


restaurants...
restaurant 1


restaurant 2


people...
flower stand


frenchmen walk


fruit stand


City Hall people watch jumbo screen tennis


City Hall


in the grocery...
grocery - fruit


grocery - cheese


grocery - vegies


lunch...
lunch


art is everywhere...
foot of the Eiffel Tower in the mist - photo of photo


natural hues stained glass window


animated fountain art sculpture


even in the everyday behind glass...
everyday made fun - window


bread in window


cotton button down shirts


white 3D art in window


je t'aime graffiti

The Road To Aberfeldy

Scottish poppy

What took weeks before the car now but a couple hours along narrow roads that wind through some of the world's most beautiful scenery. I am escorted from the stark and wild isles to Scotland's heartland.

Lochs rest a'plenty in the glacial valleys, bracken awakens through the reminents of autumn,

bracken awakens

romantic castles stand proud atop hills and on tidal islands

Eilean Donan Castle in the Kyle of Lochalsh

and water gurgles over granite, weeping from every hillside, roaring in scattered confluence of stream.

Highland waterfall

The town of Aberfeldy lies at the center of the country; every turn witness to a rich past. The famous Black Watch regiment born here,

Blackwatch monument

Blackwatch monument plaque

monument in the light

Castle Menzies standing in sleepy meadow,

Castle Menzies (pronounced Meng-gas)

the enclave of Kenmore host to poet Robert Burns - one of his evening's works beautifully penned (by the author himself) above the fireplace in the pub.

Kenmore Hotel and pub

Robert Burns hand-penned poem on Kenmore pub wall

Burns image

Burns image 2

Burns image

Whiskey is made here; the pride of Scottish hands.

Scotch at Kenmore Pub

Stone circles lay in open farmland, sheep now grazing where men of antiquity left these markers of mystery.

Croft Morag Stone Circle

Served by rail, Ronnack station lies at the end of the road, another piece of days gone by.

Rannock Station sign

Rannock Train Station

Train station phone

train schedule

It is in reluctance that I leave this far northern region. Its secrets and beauty will surely draw me again both through my writing and my presence.

Loch Rannock

Folk musician at the Blackwatch Pub _ Aberfeldy

Swan family

The Misty Isle of Skye

Skye river through the moor to the sea







Scotland doffs its dingy russets and rusts for the brightening emeralds of spring; the largest isle of the western coast basks is more than usual sunshine, gracious host to her most recent visitor. I arrive tired and jaded barely healed by time in England, eaten up with work, impatience and the realities of life. Before the fickle sun can dodge behind persistent cloud, I am in the silence of the hills, the medicinal repose of hiking the awakening moor, admiring the path of diamonds sprinkled generously over the sea loch.





In Skye I shed my century; the present retreats into a Norse murmur of briny wind, soaring gull and restless sea. I sit on the ruins of antiquity, lying in sunny hollow of the ruined Duntulm Castle keep.
Duntulm Castle Duntulm Castle -MacDonald stronghold of the north Trotternish Peninsula
Motionless, I spy a soft brown bunny wiggling his nose whilst munching tender clover. My city weary eyes wash with grateful tears of release.
Surrounded by Macleods and Macdonalds, I wonder how this thinly peopled country of solitude fostered such bloody struggles--narrow clan fights and revenges. The Highlander has been shut against civilisation by mountain and sea; modern life taken longer in reaching him in his mist shrouded environ.
Skye clouds on the mountain
Some might term the moor monotonous, the clash of waves on rock, the sigh of wind through heather and gorse melodic melancholy in deserted churchyards and hill. The Cullins verily spring from the sea, fantastic backdrop to isolate white cottage.

clouds on the mountain
When the Lords of the Islands departed, the clans regarded the king that sat in Holyrood nominally, still valuing the broadsword and dirk over plough shaft. Indeed the poor rocky soil and windswept moor is unsuitable for the farming of the lowlands. Grim, fierce and dreary are these isles on many a day as seen by the outlander. Supernaturalism belongs to the folklore as the aurora borealis does to the skies. Ballads exist in popular memory taking the colour of the period through which they’ve lived repeated generation to generation around island peat fires. Curiously culled in Celtic scenery and imagination, one is lured by this mystical magic, impressed and bewitched by desolate woodlessness, soaring peaks and distant crash of waves muffled in the wind. The peace of the hills, the strength of the Northern sea move me.
This island is pervaded by a subtle spiritual atmosphere, long floating spring days, light streaked midnight skies
Skye midnight sky
and torrents of cascading waterfalls flow over stalwart granite. No one truly knows a country until he walks through it; he then tastes the sweets and bitters, smells the earth and air, sees the vastness of its panoramas, hears its earthen sounds, feels the spirit of its people.
I have covered the walls of my mind with a variety of new pictures. The challenge now is to weave the setting as warp, its sounds, smells and tastes as weft into a Scottish Isle tapestry of tale. I am filled…and humbled.

Portree
Central and most populace town - Portree
Knoydart as seen from Armadale, Sleat Peninsulq
fisherman in the sound of Sleat
Across the sound of Sleat to the most remote area of Knoydart
(fisherman in skiff close up)
Sound of Sleat
same fisherman location central right - in the sound of Sleat
The Village of Staffin - Trotternish Peninsula
Staffin on Trotternish Peninsula

thatched roof crofter's house
Thatch roof crofter’s cottage
gate to Kilmuir Cemetary
Gate to burial place of Skye's most famous resident, Flora MacDonald (protector of Bonnie Prince Charlie after the Jacobite bloody defeat at Culloden)
Flora MacDonald's grave
Flora’s grave
Uig cliffside
Far flung village of Uig

emerald cliff
area of Uig
Red Cullins (left) Black Cullins (right)
Black Cullins right, Red Cullins left
road to Claigan
Skye's naturally dwarfed forest
Trees drawrfed by the wind
briny wildflowers
wildflowers by the sea
Dunvegan Castle seat of the MacLeods
Dunvegan Castle - Clan MacLeod stronghold
Luib House b&b view from window
View from room at Luib House B&B
Christine in the highlands
Christine in the highlands